Oakhurst (05:00) to Andre' (14:00); 13.8km; 9 hrs, includes the Bloukrans River crossing.
This day always gives people the gitters. The Bloukrans River crossing should be attempted at low tide (they say) and so most hikers try to cover the 10km from the huts to the river in time to do that. With an 08:30 low tide we would have needed to leave around 04:00 to get even close, and that at a fair pace. We didn't even try. We left at 05:00 in the hope of getting to the river by 11:00 with the tide still on its way in. We figured that if the wheels came off the bus we'd wait for the tide to turn and then cross in time to finish the few remaining kilometers while it was still light.
There's a famous rock pool early on on this day. As you climb one of the first rises, you'll look down the path and see a rocky outcrop that looks somewhat like a broken ship's hull. Catch your breath here and if it's sunny and not too frothy consider jumping off the 'hull' into the pool below. We've seen many sharks in this pool before, so my heart skips a beat just thinking about the swim. On the day the overcast weather and the foam in the pool made for some very plausible face-saving.
The 10km to 'the river' are not difficult and it soon became apparent that we were walking more quickly than either of the previous days. Stop for a bite at the Kraaibek, after 6 or 7km, and keep an eye out for otters. In the past much of the mouth of the river would have been covered in plant growth, creeping over the pebbly river bed. This time round we saw only stones; another testimony of the storm action some years back.
The Bloukrans loomed ahead of us at about 10:00 and other than the complete absence of sand in the river - again only stones and small boulders are visible - things looked quite manageable. The recommended 'A' route invloves a lengthy swim when the sea is in. The little channel that always allowed for bags and bodies to be (ungraciously) washed ashore should 'A' be the choice, is now littered with large boulders and the thought of getting all the way across only to twist an ankle or bash a leg getting out, makes it far from prefered in my mind. I have yet to experience the fabled 'walked through at ankle depth' that so many tell me is their experience here. Routes 'B' and 'C' are still very manageable. Try to use 'B' as the little cove/cave to the right of it makes for a tricky traverse when the waves are crashing about. The secret with both of these is to TRAVERSE, don't climb up and use the ridiculous rope hanging halfway up the rock face inviting you to your doom. The traverse has been used for ever and while not a walk in the park, it's easy and safe. Don't be fooled by the great steps that lure you onto a decent path just after the end of the traverse, they're the steps down from rout 'D', the "not recommended" route. Use them as a decent bench for lunch and a rest, as we did, for a while before taking on the last 4km of this long day. We stopped for almost an hour to eat, take photos, find dry clothes and relive the crossing a number of times.
The last few kms to the huts are not a walk in the park. Getting from the river to a decent path involves climbing up some sheer rock faces. Don't stress as there are ample hand and foot holds if you open your eyes. Again, don't use the rope. It's a nice idea but one or two people hanging on are bound to cause enough movement on what is meant to be a secure hand hold to make even steely nerves show signs of fatigue. By the time you get to Andre' you'll be ready for a shower and a close encounter with one of the tame buck that seem to bve part and parcel of this spot.
Oakhurst has the same facilities as the rest.
This day always gives people the gitters. The Bloukrans River crossing should be attempted at low tide (they say) and so most hikers try to cover the 10km from the huts to the river in time to do that. With an 08:30 low tide we would have needed to leave around 04:00 to get even close, and that at a fair pace. We didn't even try. We left at 05:00 in the hope of getting to the river by 11:00 with the tide still on its way in. We figured that if the wheels came off the bus we'd wait for the tide to turn and then cross in time to finish the few remaining kilometers while it was still light.
There's a famous rock pool early on on this day. As you climb one of the first rises, you'll look down the path and see a rocky outcrop that looks somewhat like a broken ship's hull. Catch your breath here and if it's sunny and not too frothy consider jumping off the 'hull' into the pool below. We've seen many sharks in this pool before, so my heart skips a beat just thinking about the swim. On the day the overcast weather and the foam in the pool made for some very plausible face-saving.
The 10km to 'the river' are not difficult and it soon became apparent that we were walking more quickly than either of the previous days. Stop for a bite at the Kraaibek, after 6 or 7km, and keep an eye out for otters. In the past much of the mouth of the river would have been covered in plant growth, creeping over the pebbly river bed. This time round we saw only stones; another testimony of the storm action some years back.
The Bloukrans loomed ahead of us at about 10:00 and other than the complete absence of sand in the river - again only stones and small boulders are visible - things looked quite manageable. The recommended 'A' route invloves a lengthy swim when the sea is in. The little channel that always allowed for bags and bodies to be (ungraciously) washed ashore should 'A' be the choice, is now littered with large boulders and the thought of getting all the way across only to twist an ankle or bash a leg getting out, makes it far from prefered in my mind. I have yet to experience the fabled 'walked through at ankle depth' that so many tell me is their experience here. Routes 'B' and 'C' are still very manageable. Try to use 'B' as the little cove/cave to the right of it makes for a tricky traverse when the waves are crashing about. The secret with both of these is to TRAVERSE, don't climb up and use the ridiculous rope hanging halfway up the rock face inviting you to your doom. The traverse has been used for ever and while not a walk in the park, it's easy and safe. Don't be fooled by the great steps that lure you onto a decent path just after the end of the traverse, they're the steps down from rout 'D', the "not recommended" route. Use them as a decent bench for lunch and a rest, as we did, for a while before taking on the last 4km of this long day. We stopped for almost an hour to eat, take photos, find dry clothes and relive the crossing a number of times.
The last few kms to the huts are not a walk in the park. Getting from the river to a decent path involves climbing up some sheer rock faces. Don't stress as there are ample hand and foot holds if you open your eyes. Again, don't use the rope. It's a nice idea but one or two people hanging on are bound to cause enough movement on what is meant to be a secure hand hold to make even steely nerves show signs of fatigue. By the time you get to Andre' you'll be ready for a shower and a close encounter with one of the tame buck that seem to bve part and parcel of this spot.Oakhurst has the same facilities as the rest.
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