Day 4 (2009)

Oakhurst (05:00) to Andre' (14:00); 13.8km; 9 hrs, includes the Bloukrans River crossing.

This day always gives people the gitters. The Bloukrans River crossing should be attempted at low tide (they say) and so most hikers try to cover the 10km from the huts to the river in time to do that. With an 08:30 low tide we would have needed to leave around 04:00 to get even close, and that at a fair pace. We didn't even try. We left at 05:00 in the hope of getting to the river by 11:00 with the tide still on its way in. We figured that if the wheels came off the bus we'd wait for the tide to turn and then cross in time to finish the few remaining kilometers while it was still light.

There's a famous rock pool early on on this day. As you climb one of the first rises, you'll look down the path and see a rocky outcrop that looks somewhat like a broken ship's hull. Catch your breath here and if it's sunny and not too frothy consider jumping off the 'hull' into the pool below. We've seen many sharks in this pool before, so my heart skips a beat just thinking about the swim. On the day the overcast weather and the foam in the pool made for some very plausible face-saving.

The 10km to 'the river' are not difficult and it soon became apparent that we were walking more quickly than either of the previous days. Stop for a bite at the Kraaibek, after 6 or 7km, and keep an eye out for otters. In the past much of the mouth of the river would have been covered in plant growth, creeping over the pebbly river bed. This time round we saw only stones; another testimony of the storm action some years back.

The Bloukrans loomed ahead of us at about 10:00 and other than the complete absence of sand in the river - again only stones and small boulders are visible - things looked quite manageable. The recommended 'A' route invloves a lengthy swim when the sea is in. The little channel that always allowed for bags and bodies to be (ungraciously) washed ashore should 'A' be the choice, is now littered with large boulders and the thought of getting all the way across only to twist an ankle or bash a leg getting out, makes it far from prefered in my mind. I have yet to experience the fabled 'walked through at ankle depth' that so many tell me is their experience here. Routes 'B' and 'C' are still very manageable. Try to use 'B' as the little cove/cave to the right of it makes for a tricky traverse when the waves are crashing about. The secret with both of these is to TRAVERSE, don't climb up and use the ridiculous rope hanging halfway up the rock face inviting you to your doom. The traverse has been used for ever and while not a walk in the park, it's easy and safe. Don't be fooled by the great steps that lure you onto a decent path just after the end of the traverse, they're the steps down from rout 'D', the "not recommended" route. Use them as a decent bench for lunch and a rest, as we did, for a while before taking on the last 4km of this long day. We stopped for almost an hour to eat, take photos, find dry clothes and relive the crossing a number of times.

The last few kms to the huts are not a walk in the park. Getting from the river to a decent path involves climbing up some sheer rock faces. Don't stress as there are ample hand and foot holds if you open your eyes. Again, don't use the rope. It's a nice idea but one or two people hanging on are bound to cause enough movement on what is meant to be a secure hand hold to make even steely nerves show signs of fatigue. By the time you get to Andre' you'll be ready for a shower and a close encounter with one of the tame buck that seem to bve part and parcel of this spot.

Oakhurst has the same facilities as the rest.

Day 3 (2009)

Scott (07:00) to Oakhurst (12:20); 7.7km; 5.3 hrs

We initially planned to leave late morning as high tide was at about 14:00 and the Oakhurst Huts are on the Lottering River which needs to be crossed. We'd planned to get there as the tide was receding and cross at 16:00. The slow pace of the previous two days led to a change of plan and we left at 07:00 to aim for an earlier crossing, but give us room for any mishaps or melt-downs should they arise.

On previous trips the Geelhoutbos River (which runs past the Scott Huts) would offer a sandy beach giving way to a stony river bed. On this trip there was no sand to be seen anywhere. A pointer to violent storms in 2007 I was told. The day is much as the previous one with one notable climb that seems to pass the very finger of God. From the top of the climb the view is truly astounding and the exhaustion of the climb is soon forgotten. Not as long as the climb out of Blue Bay, but by now legs and bodies are resigned to the inevitable, so it's hard to say if it is better or worse.

Stop for tea at Elandsbos River with its wide beach and almost mysterious river. Take some time to head upstream to swim and look for otter and monkey/baboon prints. It's a super secluded spot. Take photos on the beach, play with the lighting, reflections and shadows. Travel magazine-type shots abound.

Try to cross the Lottering at low(ish) tide. The river isn't as bad as the Bloukrans but it's stony and with the waves crashing about makes for a bit of a swim. Follow the instructions on the map as they're still relevant.

At the huts head for the rocks overlooking the sea and look for otters in the surf, seen them 4 out of 4 times! Facilities at Scott are as for the other huts.

Day 2 (2009)

Ngubu (08:00) to Scott (16:30); 7.9km; 8.5 hrs, including a long lunch and rests.

This is a great day, with lots of time spent walking in the forest. The trail climbs and drops constantly so it's a killer - but perfectly timed after the easy first day. Don't stress about time or how fast you're walking. There is a lot to see and take in, so do.

We stopped for a break at Skilderkrans. It's worth leaving the path here and climbing to the top of the krans. The views are spectacular. There's ample place to sit and not everyone needs to go to the very edge(s). There's cell phone reception here. Our next stop was at about 10:00 for a breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon rolls at at the first water point (2.3km). I can vividly recall the first group I did this with swimming in every river we crossed, including this one. They would have given it a skip this time though. The water levels were low and the water itself a little too similar to the waterfall on Day 1. Good enough to drink when collected from the flowing sections, though, so we consumed a fair whack of coffee and tea with the great breakfast.

At about the 6km mark turn off the path to the left (down) and head for Blue Bay. It's pristine, secluded and the best lunch spot on the trail. The climb down is a little slippery after or during rain so be careful. I'd read, when starting the hike, that a rucksack had been rifled when hikers had previously left their bags on the path and lunched in the bay. If you do leave your bags note that we saw signs of baboon activity on the path and heard them for much of the first morning. We took our bags down to Blue Bay just to be safe. There is always a strong rip current in the bay so be careful if you decide to swim here. The sand is predominantly broken shells and there are many small stones and pebbles at the bottom of the sloped beach. It's more of a place to relax than frolic in the ocean. There are a few shady spots on the far side of the beach and the necessary trees and bush for a measure of privacy.

The climb out of Blue Bay to the path is a bit of a scramble and once you're on the path you'll continue climbing straight up to about 180m. It's a killer. The escape route is at the top of the climb. Seems like a bit of a park ranger's joke really.

The next stop is Kleinbos River. This is a good swimming spot, if you head to the left of the path as you hit the river and over the rocks that shield the river from view. Swim far enough and you'll get to the sea (I haven't and wont swim that far but the water is great on a sunny day). On the day the tide was coming in so swimming didn't feature. We crossed easily enough but did need to take our shoes off and ferried bags across as the footing was a little slippery in places.

The Scott huts were a welcome relief at 16:30, with the last 2km of our day taking 1.5 hrs! The walking is easy but with Blue Bay and Kleinbos both requiring a bit of effort the slow pace wasunderstandable. Scott has a loo with a view, a shower and the same cooking set up as Ngubu(and all the other huts).

Day 1 (2009)

Otter Room to Ngubu Hut; 4.8km (is this still correct?)

The start of the trail now winds through a forest area on a well-maintained and very welcoming path. It's reminiscent of parts of the walk through the forests of Kilimanjaro on the Tanzanian side. It sets the scene for much of the forest walking on the Otter perfectly, and quite gently too. Exit the forest just above the 'cave' 1.6km from the start, after the section of boulders that were always a bit of a pain to cross, especially in the rain and with a heavy backpack. This is a good spot for a tea break. Climb the wooden steps and then head towards lunch at the Waterfall, 2.8km from the start. We hit it after a bit of rain (in the week and days preceding our walk) so there was some water, but the drought has lead to a fair amount of leaf matter decaying in the pools upstream - so the water was a little smelly. We didn't swim. The Eastern side is very exposed but offers one or two places to sit for a relaxed lunch. At high tide I'm sure it gets a fair deal of spray so try for a place at the West which is flatter and offers some shade in the afternoon.

We met many foreign tourists returning from this well-loved spot, and a handful of South Africans.

At Ngubu the new braai-shelter was a surprise and a great addition for the rainy days. If you do intend to braai here, be aware that the braai area is not really covered by the roof so you may need to resort to braaing on the ground as the group ahead of us had. The outdoor fireplaces at the huts remain (uncovered). The loo has a great view of the sea and a view of the braai area. There's a shower at Ngubu.

Sighted: 2 whales on the walk and at the hut in the later afternoon; a genet at the hut fireplace at about 02:30 (yes I was awake, results of a great braai and a decent gulp of wine).

2009 Experience (still being updated)

The Trail and associated facilities are world-class. The new Otter Room at the start of the trail, right at the entrance to the park, is next to a dedicated parking area meters from the hike. No more parking at the chalets hoping for the best and enough overcast days to stop the vinyl from cracking!

Day 1
Otter Room to Ngubu Huts; 4.8km (is this still correct?)

Start of the trail at the Otter Hut and wind through a forest area on a well-maintained and very welcoming path. Exit the forest just above the 'cave' 1.6km from the start, this is a good spot for a tea break. Climb the wooden steps and then head towards lunch at the Waterfall, 2.8km from the start. Stop for lunch and then head for the huts. At Ngubu expect 2 huts (sleep 6 each), great views, a braai-shelter, outdoor fireplaces at the huts, a loo with a view of the sea and a shower.

Day 2
Ngubu (08:00) to Scott (16:30); 7.9km; 8.5 hrs, including a long lunch and rests.

This is a great day, with lots of time spent walking in the forest. The trail climbs and drops constantly but take your time to enjoy all that the day has to offer.

Stop for a break at Skilderkrans, climbing to the top of the krans to enjoy the spectacular views. Stop for a breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon rolls at at the first water point (2.3km). At about the 6km mark turn off the path to the left (down) and head for Blue Bay. It's pristine, secluded and the best lunch spot on the trail. The climb down is a little slippery after or during rain so be careful. There is always a strong rip current in the bay so be careful if you decide to swim here. The climb out of Blue Bay to the path is a bit of a scramble and once you're on the path you'll continue climbing straight up to about 180m. The next stop is Kleinbos River. This is a good swimming spot, if you head to the left of the path as you hit the river and over the rocks that shield the river from view. Swim far enough and you'll get to the sea. The Scott huts (which are on the beach, the map suggests they're at 80m) have a loo with a view, a shower and the same cooking set up as Ngubu (and all the other huts).

Day 3

Scott (07:00) to Oakhurst (12:20); 7.7km; 5.3 hrs

The day is much as the previous one with one notable climb that seems to pass the very finger of God. From the top of the climb the view is truly astounding and the exhaustion of the climb is soon forgotten. Not as long as the climb out of Blue Bay. Stop for tea at Elandsbos River with its wide beach and almost mysterious river. Take some time to head upstream to swim and look for otter and monkey/baboon prints. Try to cross the Lottering at low(ish) tide. The river isn't as bad as the Bloukrans but it's stony and with the waves crashing about makes for a bit of a swim. Follow the instructions on the map as they're still relevant. At the huts head for the rocks overlooking the sea and look for otters in the surf. Facilities at Scott are as for the other huts.

Day 4

Oakhurst (05:00) to Andre' (14:00); 13.8km; 9 hrs, includes the Bloukrans River crossing.

The Bloukrans River crossing should be attempted at low tide (they say) and so most hikers try to cover the 10km from the huts to the river in time to do that.

There's a famous rock pool early on on this day. As you climb one of the first rises, you'll look down the path and see a rocky outcrop that looks somewhat like a broken ship's hull. Catch your breath here and if it's sunny and not too frothy consider jumping off the 'hull' into the pool below.

The 10km to 'the river' are not difficult, stop for a bite at the Kraaibek, after 6 or 7km, and keep an eye out for otters. At the Bloukrans River the recommended 'A' route invloves a lengthy swim when the sea is in. The little channel where you'll wash ashore is littered with large boulders. Routes 'B' and 'C' are manageable. Try to use 'B' as the little cove/cave to the right of it makes for a tricky traverse when the waves are crashing about. On both of these routes, TRAVERSE, don't climb up and use the rope hanging halfway up the rock face.

The last few kms to the huts are not a walk in the park. Getting from the river to a decent path involves climbing up some sheer rock faces. There are ample hand and foot holds. Again, don't use the rope. By the time you get to Andre' you'll be ready for a shower and a close encounter with one of the tame buck that seem to be part and parcel of this spot.

Oakhurst has the same facilities as the rest.

Kit List

2002/3/4 School Group

FOOD
Meat: 1 kg Wors; 1 kg Chops; ¾kg Bacon; 1kg Viennas
Veggies: 4 Onions; Potatoes; 1 Garlic; 2 Patty Pans
2 Green Peppers; 6 Tomatoes; 1 Cucumber; ½ Carrots
Salad: 1 Lettuce; 2 Baby Marrows; 2 Mushrooms; 2 Olives
Other: 3 Powder Milk; 5 Smash; 2 kg Rusks; 2 Clifton
8 Pasta; 1 Salt & Pepper; 3 Marshmallows; ½kg Pap
6 Inst Pudding; ½ Margarine; 4 Mussels; 12 Eggs
1 Fresh Bread; 24 Hot Dog Rolls; 24 Round Buns
1½ Muesli; 3 Oat so Easy; 4 Soya Mince; 3 Box Salad;
¼ Coffee; ½ kg Sugar; 1 Tea

CONSUMABLES
3 Small Gas; 4 Survival Bags; 2 Soap; 2 Big Screw Gas
24 Cable Ties; 2 Dish Cloths; 2 Toilet Paper; 4 Matches
1 Pot Scourer; AA Batteries; 2 Fire Lighters; 2 Tabbard
12 Candles; 1 Tin Foil

HARDWARE
2 Stoves; 6 Pots; 1 Tongs; 2 Lamps; 2 First Aid Kits
1 Grid Cleaner; 1 Scale; 5 Tents; 1 Electric Lamp

Food Glorious Food

2002/3/4 School Group

Group
Date Breakfast Supper
21 Road Braai, Rolls, Salad, Mallows
22 Cereal, Rusks, MCTS Braai, Rolls, Veg. Bake, Pudding
23 Bacon, Eggs, Toast, MCTS Mince, Pap, Veg. Bake, Pudding, Mallows
24 Cereal, Rusks, (Eggs), MCTS Pasta, Mussels, Pudding
25 Oats, Cereal, MCTS Mince, Mash, Box Salad, Mallows
26 Oats, Cereal, MCTS Dinner
27 Road Home

Individual
Date Lunch
21 Road: Sweets, Chips, Coffee
22 Waterfall: Rolls, Ham, Tomato, Corns, Energy Bar
23 Kleinbos Rv: Biscuits, Pate, Cheese, Small Tomatoes, Energy Bar
24 Jan Swart: 2 Min Noodles, Biltong, Dried Fruit, Energy Bar
25 Bloukrans Rv: Bread, Jam, Energy Shake, Dried Fruit, Biltong, Energy Bar
26 Campsite: 2 Min Noodles, Energy Bar
27 Road

2009 Family Group
Group
Date Breakfast Supper
28 Braai (Wors & Sosaties), Rolls, Fresh Salad, Custard
29 Bacon & Egg Rolls, MCTS Basmati Rice, Soya Mince, Robot Peppers, Chocolates
30 Cereal, Rusks, MCTS Pasta, Salami, Cherry Tomatoes, Marshmallows
01 Cereal, MCTS Smash, Soya Mince, Box Salad, White Hot Chocolate
02 Cereal, MCTS Dinner

Individual
Date Lunch
28 Waterfall: Rolls, Ham, Tomato, Corns, Sweets
29 Blue Bay: Biscuits, Pate, Cheese, Small Tomatoes, Biltong
30 Oakhurst Hut: Biscuits, Salami, Cheese, Sweets
01 Bloukrans Rv: Biscuits, Salami, Cheese, Sweets
02

Everywhere is Walking Distance ...

Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time. Steven Wright

Use the Shape Magazine 10km Challenge running programme to establish a base fitness level.

The hike involves numerous fairly strenuous climbs and descents (imagine a pavilion and you're almost there). Your pack will start out weighing about 1/4 of your body-weight and go down to about 1/8 if you pack well and eat all the food. Practise using a backpack with something between the two. The longest day is about 14km and if you can manage 10km of strenuous walking you should be OK. It isn't a stroll though, be warned.